Throughout England, the gardens are a delight, especially the informal plantings created by homeowners.
This one brightens our spirits as we embark on today’s journey to Clay Bank Top, 12 miles of up and down over the moors.
Following a climb through the forest, the path joins the Cleveland Way, and we emerge on Scarth Wood Moor.
About halfway across the moor, Joe asks if it is possible for boots to shrink overnight. The mystery is solved when we reach the next road. There is Maurice, our friendly host from the previous night, waiting for us.
In his hurry to hit the trail, Joe had grabbed the wrong pair of boots, a size 9, from the tray. Joe wears a size 11. Fortunately the owner of the size 9s had an extra pair.
The North Sea is supposed to be visible from the top of Cringle Moor. Today it takes a bit of imagination to perceive it.
From the Wainstones it is mostly downhill to Clay Top Bank.
Precipitation increases, requiring attention to avoid slipping on the wet stone path.
Clay Bank Top is simply a car park. The proprietor of our habitation for the evening meets us there, and conveys us to the Buck Inn in nearby Chop Gate.
A steep climb starts the next day, followed by moorland scenery, and an abandoned railbed that makes for easy walking. We imagine how it must look when the heather is in bloom.
We pass mysterious remnants of the distant past.
After a damp, bone chilling day, the famous Lion Inn offers a cozy refuge while we await our ride to White Horse Farm in Rosedale. No Uber here.
Our temporary residence includes a lovely setting overlooking the valley, and comes complete with horses.
An evening stroll to explore the surroundings wraps up another memorable day on the Coast to Coast.
Today’s destination is Glaisdale. The trek begins with a visit to Fat Betty, a medieval monument.
There are frequent reminders that we are not the first to pass this way.
The vistas are boundless.
Soon civilization begins to appear.
Next morning, the River Esk leads us out of Glaisdale along a treed path.
It is a day to be thankful for waterproof boots and gaiters.
Crossing the river, we find ourselves in the appealing stone village of Egton Bridge.
The dampness of the day does not hinder our enjoyment of this delightful area.
Once again we find a vestige of the past.
In this area we encounter a crew repairing one of the elegant stone bridges and stop for a chat. The pride in their craftsmanship, and in the heritage embodied by the structure, is very evident and uplifting.
Next up is Grosmont, home of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. Watch the Harry Potter train leave the station below.
IMG 0056 from Brian Vogt on Vimeo.
Our biggest planning error on the entire trip was failing to allow adequate time for a train ride here.
The nadir of the whole route ensued. This climb is steep and unrelenting, without scenery for a distraction, and on pavement to boot.
At restful Intake Farm we are welcomed by our cordial hostess with conversation and a tasty piece of cake. This bodes well for dinner tonight.
The promise implied by the cake is brilliantly realized in an authentic farmhouse meal, easily the best dinner of the entire walk. We congratulate ourselves on having the acumen to select this excellent B&B, rather than rush to the coast.
Tomorrow we will reach the North Sea, and the terminus of the Coast to Coast walk.
